Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel. Show all posts

Friday, December 29, 2017

Last ride of the AWOL - Geneva, Switzerland

I started the morning casually with light breakfast and a quick spin on my bicycle to check out a few other spots in Annecy before beginning my three hour ride deeper into the Alps.  My heading was set northward as I entered the Swiss Plateau with my destination to be the Peace Capital of the World and the home to the United Nations - Geneva.  That morning's ride was phenomenal as I wound around bends and across bridges of this alpine byway taking me to the shores of yet another breath-taking lake with the sun shining down on my back.  This could not have been any more perfect for a bike ride on my AWOL.                                                                                                                                                                           Little did I know that this ride was going to be my last.  


I had made my Couchsurfing arrangements once I got to Annecy in hopes of preventing the panic that I put myself in when arriving there.  I found a graduate student that was willing to share his apartment in the heart of Genève for the night before my much anticipated lakeside bike ride to Lausanne.  Knowing that he was not going to be home until around dinner time, I made my ride casual as I crossed the border from France into Switzerland.  I took detours to international cemeteries, riverfront parks, and a few vantage points to take in the city on a wonderful Wednesday afternoon.  As the sun reached down to the Jura mountains to the west I began my finding my way to the across the Arve to unload my gear for the evening.  Once my bicycle and I were free of my bag and cart, I parted ways with my host for he was having a night out on the town with friends being the next day was a city holiday and I had a check list of places to see for myself!  My camera and tripod snugly fit around my torso,  I was ready to be off for an after-dark tour of Geneva but first dinner on the lakefront was in order!  Once my belly was filled with an array of local cheeses and an entree of baked onions stuffed with spiced chicken and more cheese topped with a savory glaze, I was ready to get some sightseeing in and a quick visit to a potential future employer - The United Nations.      



Once I heard the bells of the cathedral sound eleven strikes, I knew I ought to be heading back for the night to meet up with my host and then get some rest for the big ride the next morning.  Getting to the apartment at about the same time, I locked up my bicycle on the rack in front of the building door and headed in for the night.  Come morning, we had breakfast with one of his friends who was from India and we excitedly talked about my upcoming travels there until I realized I needed to get on the road.  As we passed through the door, I looked to where my bike should have been and then the wave of terror hit me.  My customized AWOL bicycle had gone.... AWOL!  My host, trying to calm my rapidly growing panic, reassured me that it was somewhere.  He knew it had to be because he watched me lock the cable through my frame and double check the lock before we headed in for the night.  My heart sinking to the lowest depths all while almost beating out of my chest, we began our search for my bike.  We checked EVERY bike rack in the vicinity, asked the apartment building attendants, up and down, left and right to no avail.  After I had come to terms with my bike wandering off "under new ownership", I asked my host to take me to a police station so I could file a report in hopes of collecting insurance on my custom-fit and custom-built bicycle.  There was our next problem.  When Geneva has a city holiday, they are serious about it being a holiday.  Every police station we went to was closed for the day until a local informed us that the one in the main train station would be manned on this holiday.  Well, I needed to go there anyway being that was going to be my ride from there on out and so my #WorldTour2015 bicycle tour came to an end but the journey across the globe continued nonetheless!

Thursday, December 28, 2017

Pearl of the French Alps - Annecy, France


I discovered the beauty of Annecy while I was trying to coax my mind into letting me sleep and I was scrolling through Facebook when one of the suggested ads popped up with "the ten secret places of France".  I ran the risk of this ad being click-bait and I am glad that I did!  One place hooked my attention from the list and that was Annecy.  Luckily, this lakeside city was an easy addition to my route across the European continent toward Munich for the opening ceremony of Oktoberfest.  The 18th of September being 12 days away and the entire country of Switzerland to traverse by bike and occasionally train, I needed to get to this lakeside paradise quickly so I thought I would hop on a train from Avignon to Annecy.  After my early morning ride from Nîmes with my side stop at the Pont du Gard for a few hours, I arrived in the old papal city of Avignon with a few close encounters with French traffic with a sigh of relief.  Crossing the mighty Rhône river, I followed the signs guiding me to the city center and more importantly the Gare or main train station.  I parked my bike in front of the 19th Century train station and ventured inside to check the schedule for getting to Annecy.  

Cathedral of Our Lady of Doms in the heard of Avignon
Skimming the board, it looked like I would be  departing a little after 1500 which gave me some  time to explore the city and more importantly get lunch!  I chose the 3 PM departure time being the ride to Annecy would take about three and half hours and that would allow me time to find a place to stay and cruise the canals and shores of Annecy.  So I thought!  With a few hours to hit the historic spots of medieval Avignon, I began cycling around on a hot, sunny day at a casual, carefree pace over the cobblestone streets up to the Palais des Papes (on the right)I found a small street cafe that caught my attention from their display of massive cookies and settled in at a table to regain some calories and people watch before heading back to catch my train.  Remember when I said that this ride would be about three and a half hours?  Somehow it ended up being nine hours.  I was aware that I would be changing trains in Lyon but when I disembarked from the first train, I scoured the station in search of the information board to get to the platform for my second and final leg of the trip.  The ticket in my hand denoted that the second train would be leaving in about 35 minutes after my arrival thus I wanted to find the platform sooner rather than later.  Trailing my bicycle through the station to the assigned platform, I looked up to the marque and grew confused at the next incoming train.  Confused, I saw a station official and asked him about my train and if I was at the right platform - along with all the other crucial questions a concerned traveler would ask.  He squinted at the marque and then told me that incoming train was running late and in turn would make my train late "by a few minutes".  Those few minutes ended up being an hour and forty minutes until it would arrive in Lyon!  
Then we would have to wait in the station for an additional 40 minutes before taking off to only have more delays.  My arrival to Annecy was significantly later than I had wished but luckily one of the hostels was still taking in travelers.  Weary and worn, I finally found the hostel and was welcomed by a staff from around the world!  I had intended on spending only one night in Annecy but once I saw they were going to be having a sushi night the next evening, how could I not extend my stay by an extra day?!  Needless to say, I am glad I made that decision for I was able to witness this enchanting city filled with flowers, medieval markets, and beautiful people with the time that that this city deserves!  ...and of course - SUSHI with a group of great people from all around this big world in the "Venice of the Alps"!

Wednesday, December 27, 2017

Pont du Gard - Nîmes, France


I am not too sure when I truly first fell in love with architecture followed with engineering, but I do recall when and where I first discovered the wonder of the Pont du Gard.  My parents had a 30 volume collection of the 1954 Encyclopedia Americana as part of our family library.  Sifting through the pages admiring the maps and images as my older siblings referenced from these pre-internet resources, I was able to travel the world with each turn of the page with my carefree 'research' as I was not in school yet.  Arriving to the pictures of this place, I was piqued.  Heaving the hefty book up the stairs to my parents, I wanted to learn more about this place.  Skimming the information, my dad converted the encyclopedia jargon into comprehensible material my four or five year old mind could grasp.  I was having difficulty getting just how tall the 'water bridge' was and then my dad leaned over the book and set his hand on my head.  He then asked me to imagine how tall I would be if I stacked my standing body on top of itself 50 times and that is about how tall the Pont du Gard is.  My little eyes grew larger as I tried to fathom this massive place as my attention drew back to the page with more inquisitive passion.  I could attribute this experience to being the handful of snow that started the snowball that has been my life of travel, love of architecture and engineering, and the continued journey of learning.  



To this day, this aqueduct captivates my wonder and imagination.  As a student of engineering in the modern world with the technology we have access to today, my mind is boggled as to how the designers and engineers of this particular aqueduct system were able to build this wonder of the ancient world and still a wonder two thousand years later.  The credit goes to Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa.  Considered to be one of the greatest minds of Roman engineering as he laid out near perfect road ways across the expanding empire, integrated state-of-the-art municipal sewer systems, and of course, aqueducts to serve growing cities, all of which are still functioning to this day!  One of the most recognizable structures of his craft is the Pantheon in the heart of Rome.  The design was his, however he did not live to see the completion of one of the world's greatest engineering feats.  Other honorable mentions of his include the Maison Carrée in the city of Nimes, the reason behind this aqueduct, and extensive Via Agrippa of over 21,000 kilometers of roadway were created by his one man.  Coming back to the Pont du Gard and the 50 kilometer aqueduct system that it stands a part of the intriguing fact that over the entire length of the system, it only drops 12.6 meters!  Expanding out the overall length to 50,000 meters of channel for water to flow without being pumped or forced, these builders were able to wind a (mostly) leak-proof channel to the 50,000+ citizens of Nimes and only dropping elevation of 12.6 meters!  In order to do so and with the little elevation difference between the source and the destination of the water, the Romans had to overcome the Gardon gorge.  That challenge was resolved with the tallest Roman aqueduct at a height of nearly 50 meters and requiring three tiers of arches to support the near nine million gallons of water the aqueduct provided to the citizens of Colonia Nemausus.  With credentials like that, I would rank the Pont du Gard in the top three of the Roman structures remaining today as marvels of engineering!

Saturday, December 23, 2017

France's Rome - Nîmes, France

When I penciled in my route for my World Tour 2015, how could I not include the ancient city of Nîmes and the wonders that the city holds!  The city cradles three examples of Roman structures that numerous 'top ten' lists have proclaimed to be the best preserved and 'must see' places.  Once I arrived to the city that dates back to the Bronze Age to witness the pristine Maison Carrée and the colossal arena with my own eyes, set off onto my other mission!  My told my hostess Sophie that I would make a homemade American meal for the night so I needed to stop by a market.  There was my problem.  I arrived in the later half of a Sunday and all the markets that I could find were closed for the day.  As the sun was fading from the sky, I made my way to Sophie's house to meet her and break the bad news about dinner.  After navigating my way there along Quai de la Fontaine to Sophie's, I meet another traveler that was also staying with our host for the night.  As we waited for Sophie to arrive I learned she was living in Germany as an au pair and exploring Europe before returning home.  During our conversation, Sophie pulled up and brightly welcomed the both of us and brought us to her incredible apartment.  Located on one of the low hills overlooking the center of the city, the view from her patio was breath-taking!  Once I broke the unfortunate news to my host and fellow traveler about dinner, Sophie suggested we have an American-style dinner with a Nimois flavor - pizza!  Once we returned with our pizza pies, we sat outside sharing stories and experiences with each other as we feasted on delicious slices of pizza while the apple pie for dessert was baking in the oven!  
As we finished up with dinner, Sophie shared an interesting story with us.  She began by saying she was hesitant on hosting another 'Trevor' from the experience she had with the last guest with the same name stayed with her.  Especially since I told her I was on a bicycling adventure across Europe and this other Trevor was riding a motorcycle on a European tour.  Long story short, he overstayed his welcome and left Sophie saddled with his motorcycle that he should not have had.  She closed the story with thanking me ying to the yang of a rollercoaster ride the other Trevor had sent Sophie on.  As we all decided to call it a night, I felt a great sense of relief knowing I was off the hook for not 'making' dinner and restoring faith back into the name Trevor for one of the best hostess' I have had the pleasure of meeting along my travels across the globe!

Monday, December 18, 2017

La Vuelta - Canillo, Andorra


Upon my arrival to Andorra, I was unaware of this incredible 21-day Spanish race but I was quickly informed by one of the first locals I encountered!  She told me that I must stay to witness this whirlwind competition in the mountains of Andorra and was kind enough to make a few phone calls to find out which spots would be the best to view the riders.  On the day of the race, I staked out my spot in the mountain village of Canillo along with hundreds of other spectators from around the world.  

Island in the Sky - Andorra la Vella, Andorra


When people ask me which country I have been to is my favorite, I find the question hard to answer with just one.  However, Andorra always will find itself in the top five.  After spending nearly one month in Spain, I imagined Andorra to be similar to her neighbor to the south.  I was pleasantly surprised to learn that this place is like no other!  From the towering walls that form the boundaries of this ancient principality to extraordinary streets with works of art, Andorra stole my heart. 

In my planning of World Tour 2015, I thought two nights in world's 16th smallest country would be enough to check the 700 year old principality off my list.  I quickly realized that would not be enough time so I decided to double my stay within the first few hours of exploring this fascinating place tucked away in the Pyrenees Mountains .  Once the bus pulled into the station, I retrieved my bicycle and cart out from the compartments below and set off to see the highest capital city of Europe - Andorra la Vella.  As I spun around the cobblestone streets, I saw the beacon to travelers worldwide - the "i" for information and some local insight!  After parking my bike out front, I stepped into the information center to grab the ever-so handy maps, guides, and of course local wisdom!  I gave my morning greetings in Spanish to the lovely lady behind the information desk followed and she responded happily in Catalan.  I shyly smiled and then asked in English what information she could send me with for my stay in her country.
She started to fill my hands with anything and everything that she could and then asked me if I was excited about the race.  With my eyebrow raised and an apparent look of confusion, she exclaimed "La Vuelta! You must see La Vuelta!"  She then excitedly burst from her desk over to the little information area dedicated to the race while telling me all about this incredible race.  She then asked where I was staying and then asked for me to wait a few minutes while she made a few phone calls.  She came back and unfolded one of my maps and marked out two spots that her friends and family suggested to be great spots to watch the racers make their way about the winding roads of Andorra.  After all this, she sent me off to explore the streets of the capitol with the must-sees with a true Catalan farewell of a hearty hug, a brimming smile, and a lasting impression.  Ready to explore, I took to the narrow streets of the old city with my route roughly chartered to get my first taste of this magical place.  
Now, after bicycling for more than a month everyday, I thought I would not feel the effects of a little tour around a little city with a 'little' grade to it's streets... I was in for a hard lesson to be learned!  One of the first points my local from the tourism office recommend was the Church of Sant Esteve (pictured above).  She said the views are incredible, the history is intriguing, and once there, everything else will be downhill!  Quite right, but the ride up there was most definitely a workout!   The streets leading up to this viewpoint curved up narrowly between beautiful homes and municipal buildings were not only for wheeled traffic, but also foot traffic.  Different from all other places I have been, these 'sidewalks' were stairs.  Hopefully that gives insight of how steep these streets truly are!  Once I came down from the historic heights of the old city, I followed the gentle pathways along the river La Valira lined with modern structures and art.  The there were two pieces that captured my attention were La Noblesse du Temps by the famous Salvador Dalí (left) and the architectural icon of Andorra today, the Caldea (right).  
By the time I reached the Caldea, my stomach was telling me that lunch was in order.  Heeding that call, I found a small cafe with a table situated to take in the views around me but most importantly the crystal wonder that glimmered under the beautiful day that I had been blessed with upon my arrival to Andorra.  As I sat down at my small table with a savory cup of coffee and the soothing sound the river tumbling by, I thought to myself that Andorra is a place for everyone.  The roots of this country trace back before Christ, feeding the call to history buffs.  Upon those timeworn cobblestone streets are contemporary works of art to captivate the art enthusiasts from around the globe.  The natural wonders invite adventure seekers from the streets of city life into the beauty of the mountain peaks and valleys.  Last but not least, the best of European culinary arts!  Needless to say, the phrase "great things come in small packages" is a perfect way to describe Andorra and all that this unique country has to offer her visitors from near and far at any time of the year!




Saturday, July 12, 2014

Neuschwanstein - Schwangau, Germany

After gazing into beautiful image of this castle set in a winter scene in my grandmother's home, I had dreamed of visiting this fairy-tale place.  I will openly admit, I had been working out my plans to visit Germany since I was about 12 years old and Neuschwanstein was always at the forefront of priorities of destinations.  As the bus left from Garmisch and passed through the Bavarian countryside flanked with the momentous Alps, I sat in my seat anxious as a young child waiting for Christmas to come.  When the bus made a left hand turn to head south and passed the iconic Church of Saint-Coloman, I could barely contain myself for I caught a glimpse of the "new swanstone" turrets rising out of the mist.  Once the bus came to a stop in the parking area, my heart was about to beat out of my chest, firstly because the castle was near, and secondly, we had parked right next to a chocolate shop and a Bavarian bakery!  After warming up with a hot chocolate made with heavy cream (healthy as can be!), one or four pastries, and a handful of chocolates, I was ready to start my journey upward!  I had a few hours until my allotted tour time, so I headed for the Marienbrücke first.  Pictured below on the right, is the bridge King Ludwig had built for his mother Marie to enjoy on her daily walks through the fragrant forests of Bavaria.  For me, the bridge served as an excellent viewpoint to take in the ever-changing landscape as the rain gave out to the sun to shine on the white stone castle.


Now for background history on this mystical mountain castle, Neuschwanstein was the dream of the Bavarian King Ludwig the Second.  The King was a friend and great admirer of Richard Wagner and drew inspiration from Wagner's operas for styling this dream "Palas" of Bavaria.  After years of sketches and drafting how the castle would look, where to build it and how to build it, the end product resulted in this Romanesque Revival fortress set atop a rocky outcrop above his parent's castle in southern parts of the kingdom.  With the "swanstone" white marble coming from a nearby quarry to fit the majority of the building project, other stones such as the white marble for the windows came from Salzburg, Austria, and the sandstone came from the neighboring kingdom, Württemberg.  The cornerstone was set on the fifth of September 1872 and then the construction ensued on the colossal project until the "topping out" ceremony in 1880, denoting the completion of the structural work but the undertaking of the interior would remain unfinished even to this day.  At the time of the mysterious death of King Ludwig II, the royal living spaces along with a few corridors and halls were completed.  Having only spent 11 nights in his dream refuge from the outside world, the castle's construction would go on but lacking the grandeur that the Ludwig would have desired.  The king had used his private funds to build this dream sanctuary of his rather than using the public funds of Bavaria, but had to resort to taking loans as revisions to the construction led to more costs than anticipated.  In the end, King Ludwig II had accrued a debt of 14 million marks in 1886 and the one remedy the royal family thought of to pay of the debts was to open the majestic castle to the world which was the one thing the King was trying to escape.  

I visited the castle in early October, and in the time that I waited in my "express" lane for the tour, I would estimate eight groups ranging from 25 to 40 people would enter in the halls of the castle.  With that being said, millions had passed through the Square Tower's massive door to venture into the fairy tale castle among the towering Bavarian Alps.