From the Bell Tower - Augusta, Georgia

I had a rare opportunity to go to the top of the copper topped dome of Saint Paul's Episcopal Church and take in the view of the Garden City of Georgia!  The climb to the top is an adventure in itself as the stair gradually become more and more confined until the hatch opens right underneath the small bells.  But, being hunched over and dust covered hands is worth the bird's eye view over the most historic place in Augusta.  Standing as the fourth church over the grounds that was established as Fort Augusta by Georgia's Founding Father General Olgethorpe.  The Celtic cross pictured below is the marker of the location of the original fort and holder of the cannon Olgethorpe had brought over from England to defend the growing river trading post.  As the city grew outside of the bounds of what was Fort Augusta, the church has remained despite destruction over the centuries.  The last time misfortune struck was in 1916 as fire engulfed the walls of Saint Paul's.  The large bell is in memoriam of the 1916 fire as it's inscprition reads:

"To the Glory of God

and Thanksgiving for the 

Restoration of this Church

Destoryed by Fire 1916

Rebuilt in 1918

Glory to God in the Highest"

Una buona notte in Italia - Bolzano, Italy

As I departed the known German speaking world and made my way into the northern reaches of Italy, I had a smooth transition in the Deutschsprachig, Dolomite city of Bolzano/Bozen.  The area of South Tyrol has been a mix of Romance and Germanic cultures from the beginning and continues to be so to this day.  I made my arrival to Bolzano as the sun went down over the Alps of Austria and therefore I did not know exactly what to expect the next morning when I woke up in the heart of the Italian Dolomites.  My first priority after throwing my pack on my back was to get food and what a better place to get pizza than Italy!  I followed my nose down the cobblestone streets to a food vendor in the center of one of the plazas near the main station to this glorious aroma of fresh breads and cheeses filling the air.  Basically a euro per square foot of pizza I dropped two euro for this "snack" and kept on trekking southward in the narrow streets.  After devouring the pizza, I was near the central plaza when I stumbled upon a very common place German site: Beer tents.  I can not remember the names of the brewers but they were local and they were delicious!  Mission accomplished with my stomach full, I was now ready to make my way to Sylvia's apartment to crash for the night.  Reminiscing one this night, it was truly a 'bella notte'.  Waking up refreshed and ready to go see where I landed myself with my own eyes, I opened the door to a mountain paradise!  Not only was the scenery beautiful, the tarts and breakfast rolls were heaven-sent!  Breaking my morning fast with plenty of pastries, I started my morning by stepping into the stunning structure of Assumption of Our Lady, the gem of Bolzano.  Rising above the rooftops of the city, the cathedral is much like the city a blend of Italian and German influences.  The green and gold tile-roof cathedral is a mix of Romanesque and Gothic architecture coming together to make a commanding landmark among the outlandish peaks surrounding the city.  I decided to go rogue after leaving the sanctuary of the cathedral and took Via Castel Roncolo to go about the vineyards and small farms terraced on the hillsides.  Here is where the true wonders came into play when I was following this winding path and looked up to see the old fortress of Runkelstein (Roncolo in Italian) crowning one of the hill tops.  Giving the trek a quick glance I made the executive decision of "next time" and made a left hand turn onto Via Rafenstein.  This path led me to something I did not expect to find.  The remaining ruins of the Treuenstein Castle stands among the rows of grape trellises with the 13th century tower mostly intact to this day! Continuing up the gorge, I came to a dirt path that took me up to a small waterfall that tumbles down from the heights above and over the tunnel of SP99 as it corkscrews through the rocky canyon walls.  Once I reached a bench to take a breather and enjoy the view, the time had come when I head downhill and onto the train station with Florence in the scope! 

View from the Train - Western Austria

After spending two (very short but fun-filled) days in Switzerland, the time came for me to traverse more the Alps, but this time through the "Eastern Realm" that is Austria.  My trip was split between the Swiss train and Austrian train systems at Buchs, Switzerland.  I was afforded nearly an hour of wait time to explore around Buchs where I walked about the beautiful neighborhoods and the quaint downtown area.  While meandering back to the station I came to a bridge with the four flags of the German speaking countries.  I wish I had looked at the map more attentively for on the other side of that bridge was the Principality of Liechtenstein, more so the capital city of Vaduz as what I had laid out in front of me!  I did get to go to Liechtenstein though even if it were just a train ride, I can say I have been there!  Once I returned back to the station, I stepped on board the Österreichische Bundesbahnen or more commonly seen as ÖBB's RJ train.  For your information, "RJ" stands for 'RailJet'.  I whipped across western Austria at speeds up to 140 miles per hour (230km/h)!  I started to contemplate the questions of life and death as the train wrapped around bends looming over drop off cliffs below, but nevertheless, Alpine Engineering pulled through with my survival!  I had been through the Bavarian and Swiss Alps, but what Austria holds in her borders are mountains unlike no other!  When I arrived to my Austrian lay-over destination of Innsbruck, the looked in awe up at the curtain of a sheer rock wall that fortified this ancient alpine metropolis.  Everywhere that I could see from the train, the valleys with their small towns are locked in by the staggering heights of the peaks above.

Salü Speicher! - Speicher, Switzerland

The commune of Speicher bears the name of my paternal grandmother's family name and is where my Swiss family history began!
As part of this blog, I like to share my experience of these places that I visit from the people I meet, the buildings or that I explore, the food that I eat and the lessons that I learn.  This one I compiled the pictures for this post but could not find the right words to describe this realization of a dream.  In all honesty, it was a passive dream.  Seeing all the photos from when my grandmother spent time in this country and finding of fellow Spicher relatives that stayed in the "Old Country", I knew that I would want to go back to those origins as well.  I had just not planned to make this homage to the verdant countryside above the blue waters of Lake Constance for this trip, but there was a feeling in the back of my mind that I should do it.  So I did.  After my stop in Zürich, the train wound east through the Alps to the canton of Sankt Gallen where my curiosity was intrigued, my wonder climaxed, and a dream coming true.  A dream of coming home to a place that I have never been in my life, but knew about since I was a small boy via photographs and books of this alpine hamlet.  

Arriving in the capital which shares the same name as the canton in remembrance of the Irish monk, Saint Gall, that left his home of Ireland with a band of brothers to spread the Gospel and found sanctuary in the forested hills the Bodensee, or Lake Constance.  After learning that the monks chose this place being it gave them a sense of peace, I could feel the same harmony that I felt as I stepped out into the mountain air and terraced streets of the old town of Sankt Gallen as the sun was settling in the west and that is when I made my fortuitous decision to take the S-Bahn 21 line "up the hill" to the enclave canton of Appenzell.  I purchased my ticket from one of the kiosks and looked about the main station for the platform but to no avail!  In my best attempt of Alemannisch, I asked "Chönd Si mir säge wo d'Gleis isch?"  The lady smiled and kindly directed me to the platform for the Speicher-Trogen line outside in the plaza.  My train had it's own special platform! As the train tugged up the hill, the hairs on the back of my neck stood on end as the sun cast golden light over the deep blue waters of the Bodensee and the green fields.  I watched with anticipation as I watched "Speicher" edge it's way to the top of the monitor as the train ascended the hill and made a wide turn that opened the valley up to me like a sunrise onto a new day.  Sadly, the day was coming to an end for the day so my time for exploration in the mountain town was limited... until the morning!  

After a teaser trip, I returned back to St. Gallen for the night for I had made my lodging arrangements near the beautiful abbey in the heart of the city despite all the Gästehäuser or guest houses along the ride back over looking the picturesque valley that looked more than accommodating!  I woke refreshed and ready to begin a morning's worth of wandering about this treasure chest of living history for me!  As the train hiked up along Speicherstrasse and crested the hill, the sun was rising over the Alps and giving life to the beautiful autumn day.  Stepping of the train with the blue sky above me, this was the beginning of an adventure that I did not want to end. I traversed about the alpine homes to the Reformierte Kirche.  Set up on the crown of the central hill, the church tower stands tall with its copper topped bell tower.  As I ventured around the open park leading up to the church, there was an elderly woman clad in a simple woolen jacket and skirt that noticed me as I was taking random images of the area.  She came over to me and called out "Guete Morge" to me and I light up and geared my mind to Alemannisch and had a lovely conversation with her while enduring the never ending learning of new words and phrases!  She then led me over to the church office for one of the attendants to give me a tour of the church and that can answer any questions I have in English if need be!  Funny thing about Mari, the church attendant, her sister is married to a Spicher!  She told me there were a few Spichers buried in the graveyard on the north side of the church grounds.  After getting my full tour of the grounds and an invite to come to that evening's service, I departed the early nineteenth century church to the graveyard where the most splendid view unfolded in front of me.  The feeling of the warm morning sun on my face, the fresh alpine air and the sound of the bells ringing in the air of the milk cows moving about lifted my spirits as it reminded me of my farming background and life back home in Montana.  For most, this spot would not be a "must-see" stop on for a Swiss getaway, but for me, visiting the small commune tucked away in the rolling hills beneath the Appenzeller Alps just above the shores of Lake Constance was a form of paradise that I got to enjoy for a day.  A day that I will remember forever.

Grüezi Züri! - Zürich, Switzerland

Panoramic view of Zürich from the eastern tower of the Grossmünster.

My visit to Zürich can be labelled with carpe diem to the nth degree.

Once I made the trek to my host's hillside apartment from the bustling central station, my journey about the alpine lake city began!  I did not really plan to spend very much time in Switzerland being I had dedicated most of the trip to exploring Italy, but it is amazing what can be done in the matter of a single day's time!  After taking in the view from the plaza overlook of the ETH library, I made my way down the web of staircases down to the banks of the Limmat.  I could not have asked for a more pleasant evening to be walking along the tranquil river walk in the heart of Zürich.  The night was as crisp and clear as the star-studded sky above as I trekked about the cobble stone streets filled with the ever-so-sweet smells of chocolates and Swiss cuisines of every liking!  As I stood at the stone railing overlooking the Limmat on the south side of the Rathaus setting up for a night shot, I was taken by surprise as swans passed by at an effortless stone's throw and just in time to capture them in a shot with the Fraumünster Church. What more could I have asked for on my first night of my second European tour, you might ask?  How about a flat-bottom boat leisurely floating down the river with a live band because that is what happened!  Not only was I feeling a sugar rush from the twenty Swiss francs worth of chocolate I devoured but the mere euphoria of this city had my heart racing and my wanderlust peaked.  All the excitement set aside, I did take some down time from the vantage point of Linderhof park for a few minutes and admired the hill that I had to hike up for that much needed sleep and recover from jet lag that I had been too busy to realize I had!
 

Once recovered and refreshed, my hostess Marti made me a cup of stout coffee and a light breakfast as she gave me a long list of things to do on my daytime endeavor!  By the advice of Marti, I found myself at the massive bronze doors of the north portal into one of the most significant places to the Swiss Confederacy.  The Grossmünster today dates back to 1100 and twin towers are said to be the most recognizable landmark and lasting treasure of Zürich.  Stepping into the ancient halls that Huldrych Zwingli once walked to preach his word to the citizens of Zürich that led to the Reformation of Switzerland.  The historical value set aside, the adventure of winding up the winding maze of stairs up to the south tower to the panoramic view was priceless!   I highly recommend paying the two francs to make the climb of the 187 stairs to the top for the best view of "Downtown Switzerland".  Another must-do of Zürich is to taken in the sweet aroma of all the "Schokoladenherstellern" or chocolatiers and if I had to recommend one, that would be Läderach and the picture below says it all!

Night and Day - Zürich, Switzerland

After crossing "the Pond" once again on a C-5 to Ramstein Air Force Base and cleared customs at around noon, I made my way to the Exchange to grab some much needed German style coffee and rhubarb pastries!  Once my appetite was satisfied, I crossed the atrium over to the travel center to book the fastest train south with Zürich in my scope!  After sitting down with my ever so helpful travel agent, we got my ticket squared away via mixed German-English dialogue and I was out the door tickets in hand!  Stepped out into the perfect autumn Rhineland weather with perfect timing as an available taxi pulled up in front of me.  I wish I could recall her name, but my driver and I had a fantastic drive into K-Town whilst I warmed up my German and she practiced her English skills talking about this and that, and of course travel.  Soon enough, I was at the familiar doors to the Kaiserslautern Hauptbahnhof and ready to board by train!  Continuing into the beautiful autumn day was a tremendous train ride through the German countryside next to the Rhein.  Adding to the already great first day, I watched the sun set over France from Germany as I neared the Swiss border to the city of Basel where I would depart my comfort zone of the DeutscheBahn to SNCF lines to what the locals call "Downtown Switzerland".

I arrived to the city after dark which made for an interesting trek up to where I was staying for night as my first AirBNB experience.  According to Google Maps, the walk looked like "cross the bridge, make a left, and go a few blocks" easy, but little did I know that Zürich was built on near ski-worthy slopes.  After arriving to Marti's top floor apartment on Winterthurerstrasse, quite the handle for a street name, I asked for recommendations for the best view of town and she immediately lit up with excitement as she explained the view from the ETH Library.  ETH is short for Eidgenössische Technische Hochschule, long name, but great school with a ranking of third in the world for engineering and also the alma mater of Albert Einstein.  Once I rounded the corner of the library to the plaza I understood why Marti was so eager to tell me of this spot!  If you ever find yourself in Züri, take in the view from this heavenly vantage point at night and during the day, especially for a sunset over Zürichsee and northern Alps of beautiful Schweiz!

Caught in the Rain - Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

When I departed Union Station in Washington, D.C. the skies were clear as the sun edged toward the horizon, but as I tracked north the weather 'went south'.  The City of Brotherly Love had been at the top of my American Cities list for quite sometime and once I got over my awe of the 30th Street Station, I ventured out into the early evening rain to one of America's grand architectural wonders: Philadelphia City Hall.  Knowing beforehand that the top of William Penn's hat marked the record for tallest habitable structure in the world for more than a decade, I was still shocked by the incredible height of the tower looming into the hazy mist above as I stepped closer and closer.  Once I was checked into my hotel less than a block away for the night and my bag hit the floor, I was out the door in a flash to capture this engineering marvel in all it's might at night!  The spring rain did not damper my spirits as one might have suspected, but much rather the opposite for the mist gave a striking definition to the immense size of McArthur and Walter's masterpiece.    

The River City's Cathedral - Richmond, Virginia

Overlooking the pentagram park named after James Monroe at the edge of the Fan District and the downtown of Richmond, the twin towers of the Sacred Heart rise above the ancient trees of the park below.  This being my third visit to the "Capital of the South", I finally was provided the opportunity to take in the remarkable interior of this Richmond landmark.  Before my departure westward to Charlottesville, I was going to try my luck once more on finding an open door and being it was a Sunday morning, I knew my chances would be high!  I wish I could have stayed for the morning service, but I had a schedule to keep so my stay was brief.  But, I did take the time to sit down in an aft pew and read from the self-guided tour pamphlet and that is when I learned of the cathedral's rich history, in the adjective and monetary sense.  The construction of this grand cathedral was financed by a recent convert to Catholicism and railroad magnate, Thomas Fortune Ryan and his family.  When completed in 1906, the cathedral is believed to be the first cathedral to be built entirely by the funding of a single family in American history.  What peaked my interest was the foundation of the church, more specifically the rare stone that was laid down on the sixth of June, 1903, as the cornerstone.  The stone block chosen to be the first set for Ryan's cathedral originated from the Garden of Gethsemane.  Quarried from the base of the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem and the same ground on which Jesus and the his disciples slept on the eve of the crucifixion.  One of those powerful and surprising pieces of worldly history that can be  right under your feet and you would never know it!  

Wedding of Eritrean Aura - Columbus, Georgia

Nearly six years ago, I met a vibrant and vivacious spirit during the trying times that come with Navy boot camp.  After our eight weeks of "hurry-up-and-wait's", seemingly endless marching, and other preparatory lessons to prepare us for what lay ahead within our Naval careers, we parted ways.  Despite going about the world in different directions, we stayed in touch and after she finished her time, our paths crossed once again in a very special place.  Over an ocean and in the picturesque Marienplatz in the heart of the Bavarian capital city during one of the world's greatest festivals - Oktoberfest!  Under the opulent tower of the City Hall of Munich, I was met with a smiling familiar face and a new one was tagging along with her.  Whilst eating savory German food and quenching our thirst with Reinheitsgebot beer in lieu of the Oktoberfest season, the memories flowed and were made all the same as we sat next to a table full of jubilant Danes that made the experience all the more memorable.  After parting ways once again, I was invited to be a part of their happiest day on a beautiful November day with their families and friends, which was also a reunion after many years for a few of us from Division 360.  Adding to an already enchanting day, her family of Eritrean heritage gave charisma to the beautiful celebration of marriage to two beautiful people.  Their song filled the hall and poured out over the gardens of the old river mill in downtown Columbus and their dances raised all of our spirits and smiles alike!  I am truly honored to have taken part in such an extraordinary day for this Port-watch's dear friend, Starboard Watch.    

The Tar Heel's Capitol - Raleigh, North Carolina

Having visited 17 of the 50 state capitol buildings at this point, each has their unique twist to their stage of the political scene.  Today's statehouse of the Old North State was built in a Greek Revival style giving the building a spartan touch, simple but strong.  Although the structure may seem austere, this edifice holds some uncommon treasures that visitors will not easily find in any of the other 49 counterparts.  To begin the adventure, I entered the capitol's first floor and made my way toward the natural light beaming down from the dome above to find a peculiar statue.  A replica from the original that was housed in the first capitol building in the new city of Raleigh until fire took it's heavy toll, the statue is of our first President - George Washington.  What makes this sculpture especial is that our founding father is depicted as an officer of a Roman legion, from the short cropped and curly hair to the traditional tunic of the era writing on a scroll in Italian!  Venturing up the cantilever staircases to the levels above, the second floor housed the common findings of a legislative center of Senate and House chambers in a simple Colonial design.  Continuing upward to the third floor is where North Carolina hides her jewels of the building.  My favorites, and judging by the response and the amount of questions by the rest of the tour group, were the Library and the Geologist's Office.  Both chambers were heavily influenced by the Gothic style but all in Carolina material and character, the offices hold two forms of the state's history by either pen & paper or by fossilization.  The photo above shows the glassed cases housing various minerals, stones and soils naturally occurring throughout the state while the interior laboratory tables demonstrate how the geologists studied alongside prospectors and agriculturists of yesteryear. 

The founding of Raleigh came from the growing concern as the predictable Revolutionary War loomed over the citizens of colonial North Carolina.  New Bern hosted the seat of government from 1766 until growing concerns of attack to the coast put leaders on edge and as westward movement across the territory called for a more adequate capital city.  One might say, the leadership sent men on a wild goose chase across the rolling hills of eastern North Carolina to find a suitable tract to lay out a new city.  Under the persuasion of Colonel Joel Lane and the area being a prime location for such a calling, Wake County was voted to be the political center and by luck and fortune, the spot is nearly in the exact center of the state!  Starting from scratch, the city planners drew up inspiration from the then-capital city of the new nation: Philadelphia.  The cornerstone to the copper-domed capitol was set in place in 1833, two years after the first colonial brick building was consumed by fire in 1831, and was completed in 1840 under the direction of the father-son designers William Nichols and William Nichols Jr among others.  As I wandered the grounds after my tour, I found the Presidents Statue quite intriguing.  Seated are two "confirmed" citizen Presidents born in the Tar Heel State, being James Knox Polk and Andrew Johnson.  Riding proudly atop a horse is none other than Andrew Jackson - Pride of the Carolinas.  Which Carolina that is exactly is still an ongoing friendly yet earnest dispute between the two sister states and I foresee that debate to continue for as long time allows! 

Old Capitol Glory - Baton Rouge, Louisiana

As part of my goal to see all the state capitol buildings, I subjected my two friends to going on a side trip before we made the trek back to Georgia.  At this point, I have toured seventeen of this nation's government houses to also include the historic ones such as this one and I will admit, the Old Capitol of Louisiana is one of the most beautiful that I have opened the door into!  Entering from the north door, I was showered with rich colors from the stained glass dome spanning high over the spiraling staircase.  I had quickly learned in New Orleans that the people of Louisiana are a bright and vibrant people that also celebrate their history and a sublime example of that is the resplendent Gothic styled Old Capitol.  Surrounding the railing of the last few steps stand the fifteen flags of the states that were part of the Louisiana Purchase, to include my homestate of Montana!  Serving as a museum today, the Old Capitol holds a tremendous amount of the Pelican State's diverse narration of history.  

After learning that the decision to move the capital from the metropolis of New Orleans in fear of power concentration and corruption in the 1840s that the "Red Stick" was chosen to house the seat of government for the Bayou State.  One can say that Baton Rouge had "bloody" beginnings, for that is where the name of the modern city was derived.  When the earlier French explorers ventured up the waterways of the Mississippi under the lead of Pierre le Moyne Sieur d'Iberville, they came upon poles stained red from the adhered carcasses marking the boundary between to the two tribal nations of the area.  That exhibit is a fairly detailed exhibition, so take heed!  As a disciple to architecture, this building held many rewarding features beyond the dazzling dome and grand staircase.  Learning about the construction of the structure depended largely on cast iron came to a surprise to me due to the ungodly high humidity and the likeliness of cast iron to rust.  In addition to that, while being used as a garrison for the Union "invaders", the building caught fire twice and remained standing.  Before the turn of the 20th century,  great renovations and alterations were made to the Capitol, namely what is the focal point today: The Dome and Staircase.  But, after Freret finished his work in the "old castle" in 1882, the building would be decommissioned from political service as the new towering capitol to the north half a century later.  

Mausoleum Maze - New Orleans, Louisiana

New Orleans holds that title of unique stardom for the spirited jazz playing on every corner, spicy cuisine of endless options and notably, Mardi Gras, but for me the true unique aspect of the city is the Saint Louis cemeteries.  Lying at the northern edge of the French Quarter, the vaults rise up in rows for blocks like petite houses to the bygone New Orleanians.  One of my many oddities is that I take pleasure in meandering about cities of the dead and this necropolis ranks in the top five that I have explored.  The walls encompassing the weathered brick vaults and stone tombs are multitasking as barriers to the living and as chambers to the less affluent dead to maximize the crowded spaces.  One the note of crowded spaces, the oldest portion of the cemetery known as 'No. 1' is subsequently the oldest of the areas, dating back to the founding of the grounds in 1789 is an eerie place to course through and am not entirely too sure about which way is the exit.  As a person of more than six feet in height, these mausoleums loomed above me and seemingly wanted me to stay lost in their labyrinth of the lasting temple of what remains of citizens past.

Saint Louis Cathedral - New Orleans, Louisiana

Rising out of the fervor of the French Quarter are the three iconic steeples to one of America's oldest cathedrals: Cathedral-Basilica of Saint Louis, King of France.  Set overlooking Jackson Square, one of only a few American churches of Roman Catholicism to do as many of the Old World often do, onto the mighty Mississippi River only feet away.  With that in consideration, it surprised me that this church was first established in 1718 knowing the likelihood of spring flooding of the river and surges from summer storms from the Gulf.  Although, the church grew into a larger and grander structure as time past on and in 1793 was elevated to serving as the seat of a bishop, or more commonly given the name 'cathedral'.  While on the drive from Georgia, I was hashing out how my time would be spent while sober and visiting the Cathedral had priority and looking back on the experience, I am glad I committed the time that I did!  The afternoon before we departed from the Big Easy, I spent some time in the shade of the old oak trees writing postcards and whenever I would look up, it was the stark facade of Saint Louis looking back at me.  I highly encourage any visitor to the Cresent City to rest your tired feet for an hour in the shade listening to the live music fill the air in the sight of this American treasure.

In order for me to get the shot of Jackson's statue with limited "people" interference, I waited at this spot for nearly 40 minutes and as I waited, other fellow photographers gathered in hopes of catching the same view.  When this brief but beautiful moment happened, we all gave each other a robust high five afterward for sticking it out all in the sake of one single photograph!